How to Regrow Green onions From The Root Ends


Yesterday I planted one of our beds out in green onions. Not seeds or sets mind you but with scraps of root ends that get chopped off in prepping and normally thrown away or put in to compost.

  • all I do is cut the bottom 3/4 of an inch or so of the green onion when using leaving a tiny portion of the onion itself and the root.
  • I then throw them in a cup of water in the fridge and let them sit until the next time I plant.
  • If it is going to be a while before the next planting, I change the water every couple days until I do. They will stay good this way for a few weeks if not longer.
  • When I am ready to plant I just stick the root end down in the soil and cover with an inch of soil.

They will regrow rather quickly and be ready to harvest again in a couple months. Once they are a few inches tall begin to trim the greens and use them in soups, salads or whatever else you enjoy them in.

Great tips on growing peppers to maturity


This is more-or-less what I do. You should adjust exact dates based on your particular microclimate and willingness to fuss over your plants. Some years everything goes a lot faster. Some years, slower.

Planring:
  1. Start seeds indoors 8-10 weeks before last spring frost date.
  2. The temperature must be at least 70 degrees F for seed germination, so keep them in a warm area for the best and fastest results.
  3. Start pepper seeds three to a pot, and thin out the weakest seedling. Let the remaining two pepper plants spend their entire lives together as one plant. The leaves of two plants help protect peppers against sunscald, and the yield is often twice as good as two segregated plants.
  4. Begin to harden off plants about 10 days before transplanting.
  5. A week before transplanting, introduce fertilizer or aged compost in your garden soil.
  6. After the danger of frost has passed, transplant seedlings outdoors, 18 to 24 inches apart (but keep paired plants close to touching.)
  7. Put two or three match sticks in the hole with each plant, along with about a teaspoon of fertilizer. They give the plants a bit of sulfur, which they like.
Care:
  • Water one to two inches per week, but remember peppers are extremely heat sensitive. If you live in a warm or desert climate, watering everyday may be necessary.
  • If necessary, support plants with cages or stakes to prevent bending. Try commercially available cone-shaped wire tomato cages. They may not be ideal for tomatoes, but they are just the thing for peppers.
  • Harvest as soon as peppers reach desired size.
  • The longer bell peppers stay on the plant, the more sweet they become and the greater their Vitamin C content.
  • Use a sharp knife or scissors to cut peppers clean off the plant for the least damage.

How to plant asparagus crowns in raised beds






How To do it :

  • Choose a sunny part of the garden with good drainage.
  • Dig a trench and check the pH, which should be 6.5 to 7.5.
  • Plant the crowns about 8 in. deep and 15 in. apart.
  • Cover initially with 2 in. of dirt, and gradually fill the trench as the spears emerge.
  • The edible stems of asparagus rise directly from the ground. Spears that are about 8 in. tall are ready to harvest.
  • Snapping of the spear by hand is easy and protects the plant. You can use a knife, but be careful not to damage developing stems.
  • At the end of the harvest, allow the asparagus plants to form ferns. These help transfer energy to the roots for good spear development the next season.




Small space potato growing






Potatoes are relatively easy to grow and can be grown in garbage bags, sacks, or potato bins. The potato bin is actually a large plastic 20 to 25 gallon bucket. This type of bin is large enough to accommodate other vegetable projects such as tomatoes, squash and cucumbers. Looking for the perfect bin? We have Gardman potato tubs in stock -- these bags pop up and have access flaps on the side that allow you reach in and pull out potatoes when ready to harvest.

Growing Hydrangeas • Lots of Tips Ideas!






Sun and Shade
Most hydrangeas prefer morning sun and afternoon shade, and don’t deal well with hot climates. Coastal climates are ideal, as are cool summer areas. Both too much heat and too little sun can contribute to poor performance for old fashioned hydrangeas. PeeGee hydrangeas deal much better with heat. Oak leaf hydrangeas are perfect for partial shade areas. No hydrangea will bloom in deep shade.

Water and Fertilizer
Hydrangeas prefer to be evenly moist, and love a fertile spoil. That having been said, when using commercial fertilizers, it’s often advised to use half strength liquid fertilizer so you don’t stimulate too much leaf growth at the expense of the flowers.

Pruning
Most (except re-bloomers) bloom on old wood, so severe pruning is not necessary. Prune away dead wood each spring, and dead head the flowers that are past their prime to promote the most flowers on each bush. PeeGee and Annabelle hydrangeas are more tolerant.

Soil
Hydrangeas prefer soil rich in organic matter. You may have heard that you can change the color of a hydrangeas blooms based on soil composition. It’s true that the pink and blue varieties are influenced by the soil ph. You can change a pink hydrangea to blue by adding aluminum sulfate to the soil to make it more acidic. It is pretty difficult to change a blue hydrangea to pink…

Problems
The biggest problems hydrangea gardeners have is lack of bloom… This is usually caused by one of three things… a late freeze, using a variety that is not intended for your climate, or pruning too much of the old wood away.